The latest issue of the Review of International American Studies is now out and is dedicated to an issue very near and dear to my own research interests: Indigenous social movements in the Americas.
I had the pleasure of reviewing Paul Freedman’s impressive Ten Restaurants that Changed America. It fills many gaps in America’s overlooked restaurant history. In my review I mention Berkeley’s Cafe Ohlone, a reminder that one cannot talk about food culture in North America without acknowledging Indigenous chefs, ingredients, and their influence.
I am delighted to be in excellent company. To name a few, Mariaelena Anali Huambachano has written about Indigenous foodways in Peru, Elizabeth Hoover about fire and the water protectors at Standing Rock, and Zuzanna Kruk-Buchowska about food sovereignty efforts in the Oneida Nation.
This weekend I am delighted to be attending the Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery for the second time. This year’s theme is food and power and I am thrilled to be on an absolute power panel titled “Feminism.” Chaired by the great Laura Shapiro, Don Lindgren, an antiquarian bookseller, will speak about American community cookbooks and women’s empowerment in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries and Dr. Alex Ketchum, a professor at McGill University’s Institute of Gender, Sexuality, and Feminist Studies, will discuss the history of feminist restaurants in Canada and the United States in the 1970s and beyond. I will be presenting the paper “Muckamuck: Restaurants, Labour, and the Power of Represention” about the first Indigenous-themed restaurant in urban Canada.
That’s right: the Caesar salad was invented south of the border in Mexico. And I walked from San Diego to Tijuana to eat at the restaurant that first tossed sturdy romaine leaves together with a creamy dressing and called it a Caesar. Read about the history of my favourite culinary cliché over at BBC Travel.
“When a food comes back, we should understand why it went away,” writes American journalist Gabe Bullard. His article “Bushy Tails and Old Cookbooks” traces the rise and fall of squirrel in the American culinary canon—and now its unexpected return. He asked me about fashions in food and forgetting, and we chatted about the relationship between what we eat and where we are. Read his article for The Bitter Southerner here.
Berkeley’s Canadian Studies Program hosts a monthly luncheon colloquium series and I am absolutely thrilled to be giving April’s talk. Titled “Restaurants and Reconciliation: The Representation of Indigenous Foodways in Canada,” I will discuss how restaurants serve so much more than just dinner. Please join me on Tuesday April 2, 2019, from 11:30am to 1pm in 223 Moses Hall.
Like many, I fell in love with Paris - or even just the idea of Paris - years before I finally arrived at Gare du Nord. Since then I’ll use any excuse to go back and continue this courtship, confident my relationship with the city will always be far more serious than a teenage crush.
And so I am delighted to have contributed to Eva Jorgensen’s Paris by Design: An Inspired Guide to the City’s Creative Side. Together with her husband Kirk, Eva runs what started as a stationary company and has grown into a creative studio: Sycamore Co. It is, of course, no surprise that a paper specialist has put together an inspirited ode to one of the world’s cultural capitals.
Designer and illustrator are only two of the many hats Marin Montagut wears. His love for Paris is as endless as his own creative curiosity and I had great fun interviewing him about flea markets, treasures, and the French capital. The book comes out on April 9. Read more about it here.
Dates and dim-sum, salsa and San Francisco sourdough. This past semester I taught a course at the University of Munich called "California Cooking: How the Golden State Changed the Way America Eats.” After four months of talking about foodways in California, and their many histories, I am delighted to have the opportunity to spend the next two months eating (and, of course, cooking, or at least assembling/dicing avocado and segmenting citrus) in the Golden State. Until the end of April 2019, I will be based at UC Berkeley as a visiting scholar in the Department of Ethnic Studies.